Fragrance Myths

The Truth About Fragrance Longevity, Projection, and Concentration

For fragrance enthusiasts, nothing is more frustrating than spending money on a luxury perfume only to feel like it disappears too quickly or lacks projection. Many consumers believe that higher fragrance oil concentrations automatically result in stronger and longer-lasting scents. However, this assumption is a myth—one that has been fueled by marketing strategies and a partial understanding of fragrance chemistry.

In this blog, we will explore the science behind fragrance longevity, projection, and concentration. By the end, we hope that you will feel more informed and understand how perfume truly works and why more oil does not always mean better performance. We will try not to get too into the weeds of the chemistry behind it all.

Understanding the Fragrance Pyramid and Volatility

One of the most fundamental aspects of perfumery is the fragrance pyramid, which represents how a scent evolves over time. A perfume consists of:

  • Top Notes (15-30 minutes) – The first impression, usually made of citrus, green, and fresh notes.

  • Middle (Heart) Notes (2-4 hours) – The core of the fragrance, often floral or fruity.

  • Base Notes (4+ hours) – The foundation, typically composed of woods, musks, and resins.

The reason some notes last longer than others lies in volatility, which refers to how quickly molecules evaporate. Citrus notes, for example, are composed of lightweight, highly volatile molecules, which is why they disappear quickly. In contrast, heavier molecules (such as those found in sandalwood, oud, or musk) stick to the skin longer and evaporate more slowly.

This is why woody and musky fragrances naturally last longer than fresh, citrusy ones. Increasing fragrance concentration won’t make a lemon-based perfume last as long as an oud-based one—it’s simply a matter of chemistry.

Why More Fragrance Oil Doesn't Always Mean Better Performance

Fragrances are typically made up of two main components:

  1. Fragrance oil concentrate – The raw scent materials.

  2. Alcohol or other solvents – Helps the scent bloom and disperse.

Many people assume that higher oil concentrations = longer-lasting fragrance, but this is not always the case. In reality, a higher percentage of oil can sometimes trap the scent rather than allow it to bloom into the air.

For example, a fragrance like Baccarat Rouge 540 comes in a standard version and a higher concentration (Extrait). Many users find the lower concentration version projects better because it has more alcohol to help the fragrance diffuse into the air.

Some raw materials also become harder to smell at high concentrations. Certain musks, for instance, are detectable at 1% but become imperceptible at 5%. This is why some extraits (highly concentrated fragrances) can actually feel weaker than their Eau de Parfum counterparts.

The Marketing Gimmick of High Fragrance Concentrations

You’ve likely seen brands promoting their fragrances as containing 30%, 40%, or even 45% perfume oil concentration. While this sounds impressive, it can be misleading.

Many companies inflate their percentage claims by adding large amounts of solvents (such as Dipropylene Glycol or DPG) into the mix. This allows them to claim a high concentration while still using the same amount of actual fragrance oil. Another trick is overloading a formula with Hedione, a jasmine-like molecule that doesn’t have a strong scent but boosts other floral notes.

This tactic tricks consumers into thinking they’re getting more value, when in reality, they are often paying for a formula that isn’t necessarily stronger or longer-lasting.

The Role of Nose Blindness in Perceived Longevity

Another factor that contributes to the myth of weak fragrances is olfactory fatigue or nose blindness. This happens when your brain becomes accustomed to a particular scent and stops registering it as a stimulus.

Your sense of smell is biologically designed to detect danger and find food, not to constantly process the same scent for hours. If you apply a fragrance and stop noticing it after a few hours, it doesn’t mean it’s gone—other people can likely still smell it on you.

A great example is Baccarat Rouge 540. Some wearers claim it disappears within hours or even minutes, but others find it incredibly strong. In reality, the scent is still there, but those wearing it may have become nose-blind to its key aroma molecules.

How to overcome nose blindness?

  • Apply your fragrance to your clothes, where the scent evolves differently than on skin.

  • Take breaks from your fragrance—don’t wear the same scent daily.

  • Reapply after a few hours to refresh your perception.

The IFRA Regulations: Why More Oil Isn’t Always Safer

Another reason brands can’t simply “increase concentration” for better longevity is due to safety regulations set by IFRA (International Fragrance Association). Many fragrance ingredients have strict legal limits on how much can be used in a formula to avoid skin irritation or allergic reactions.

For example:

  • Benzaldehyde (cherry/almond scent) is limited to 0.25% in a fragrance.

  • Certain citruses, musks, and spices have caps to prevent irritation.

If a brand wants to increase a fragrance from 20% to 40%, they can’t just double the perfume oil—they have to add more solvent or safe filler materials. This means higher concentration doesn’t necessarily mean higher potency. This is important, if a brand is representing that their fragrances are made with concentrations approaching the 40% range, they are either pumping it full of DPG or Hedione, or they are selling a perfume that is likely unsafe and not following the guidelines provided to perfumers by IFRA.

The Push for Longevity is Making Fragrances Smell the Same

The industry’s obsession with longevity and projection has also led to a lack of creativity in modern perfumery. Because brands want to make long-lasting perfumes, they overuse heavy molecules like:

  • Woody ambers

  • Synthetic musks

  • Resinous materials like labdanum and oud

As a result, many new releases smell extremely similar, following the same structure that prioritizes longevity over uniqueness. This trend has led to many modern perfumes lacking the complexity and artistry that older perfumes once had.

What You Should Look for in a Fragrance

  1. Longevity is influenced more by ingredient type than concentration. Woody and musky notes last longer than citrus and fresh notes, regardless of oil percentage.

  2. Higher oil concentration doesn’t always mean better projection. Too much oil can suppress the scent’s diffusion into the air.

  3. Marketing claims about concentration can be misleading. Some brands add solvents or Hedione to boost their percentages.

  4. Olfactory fatigue is real. Just because you can’t smell your perfume doesn’t mean it’s gone.

  5. IFRA regulations limit how much of certain ingredients can be used. This prevents fragrances from being “made stronger” beyond safe thresholds.

At the end of the day, the best perfume is one that you love and that fits your personal taste—not just one that lasts the longest. Fragrance is an art form, and it should be appreciated for its complexity, not just its ability to stick around for 12 hours.

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